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Faith Over Fear

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Just feet away from the Azerbaijani border, one man’s land has turned into a museum of ancient Armenian artifacts.

“Not only is our national existence in danger, but also our cultural values.” – Souren (Surik) Harutunyan

Souren Harutunyan, also known as Surik, was born and raised in Armenia, and has lived his whole life in his home in a small village in Goris on the Armenia-Azerbaijan border.

Surik drinks from a tub of water, a khachkar carved into the top. The names of his daughter and her doctor are etched into the stone. After one of his daughters fell into a deep coma, the doctor was able to pull her out of it and heal her. Surik drinks this water that he believes to be healing.

Cross carved stones sit in the grass in the front yard of Surik’s land. They are only a few of the treasures Surik has collected and found over the years.

Nestled in a rocky valley, down a bumpy dirt road, Surik has built not only a home, but some may say a museum within itself. Scattered around his land lay carved rocks, some with crosses, some sculpted as large animals such as a donkey and a ram. 

Surik shows two of the statues he found nearby. A donkey, and a ram. The ram can be seen with a carving of a family on the side. Withered away over time, the mother and father are still seen prominently. 

Carved into these sculptures are hidden messages or in other words, meanings. The ram was discovered with very faint carvings on the side. A man, a woman, and a donkey are etched, symbolizing a long prosperous life, according to Surik. Although the exact date cannot be confirmed, Surik believes some date back as far as 5,000 years and some are from the Christian era. 

Some of the rocks that Surik has collected over the years have come from neighboring lakes, rivers, ponds, and other bodies of water both big and small, deep and shallow. Others have come from the canyons and mountains that surround his home. Surik believes the carvings to be gifts from nature, “Be one with nature,” he says. 

Many years of Surik’s life have been spent protecting his land and creating safe spaces for the next generation of young Armenians living in Karahunj. The proximity to Azerbaijan makes real the threat that his land could be seized from him at any point. “Everything is in danger,” he says frequently.

Surik stands in front of one of the caves he’s renovated.

Up the road from Suriks home sits a small cave. Although the cave has been there for thousands of years, Surik took it upon himself to carve the inside to make it feel more like a home. Hand carved shelves, a fireplace, and small openings for things like cups, bibles, and other necessities stay vacant until occupied by his kids and the generations to follow.

Surik lights a fire in one of his caves to keep warm. He relies on the sticks and branches from the surrounding forest to ignite the fire. The smoke is then let out through a chimney built in the cave and released into the air which can be seen from across the border.

“Do not be afraid,” – Surik

Suriks’s wife, Anoush Harutunyan (front), sits in the back of a car with friends Tarlan and Stacey (back) while en route to a different cave built by Surik that houses canned foods and alcohol.

A short drive away sits another cave that has a different purpose. Many cans fill the grounds of this cold cave. Vegetables, meats, and bottles of homemade alcohol sit for winter.

Anoush poses for a picture while putting the shot glasses out for the handmade alcohol. Some bottles of alcohol have been sitting in this cave for years resulting in a very strong, pungent taste.

A view of the pond from high above where his caves sit. People are frequently seen swimming in the pond.

Despite being the closest man on the eastern side of the Armenian-Azerbijian border, Surik has no fear. Instead, he hopes that his land will be safe enough to become a tourist attraction in the future, allowing those from afar to swim in the lake, and enjoy the land, showing the beauty Armenia has to offer.

“God will protect us,” – Surik

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